Status Quo Analysis - Textile Sector

2.1. Current State of Chemical Use in Textiles

In the context of textiles, chemical traceability refers to the ability to track and trace substances used in textile articles throughout the supply chain. This involves ensuring that all chemicals involved in the production process are documented and can be traced back to their origin (Schenten et al., 2019).

For the purpose of our analysis, we will not take the post-consumer phase into account. This decision is aligned with the objectives of the ECHT project, which focuses on chemical traceability and Digital Product Passport implementation. This approach allows us to explore the necessary infrastructures and systemic requirements for integrating chemical transparency into textile manufacturing and supply chains. By defining these structural elements upfront, we create a foundation that can later support broader traceability strategies, including those addressing post-consumer waste streams.

The textile industry faces significant challenges in managing and tracking chemical substances across its global supply chain. Textile production involves a vast array of chemicals — approximately 12,000 have been identified in manufacturing processes (Bour et al., 2023; Swedish Chemicals Agency, 2014). Many of these chemicals may qualify as substances of concern (SoC) under the European Union's Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), necessitating stricter oversight.

The scale of chemical use in textiles is striking. Research estimates that producing just one kilogram of cotton T-shirts requires around three kilograms of chemicals (Hurwicz, 1979; Swedish Chemicals Agency, 2014). This figure specifically applies to the processing stage, covering all chemicals used to transform raw cotton into a finished garment, including dyeing, finishing, and treatment for specific properties. However, it excludes pesticides and fertilisers used during cultivation, as well as biocides applied during distribution. This highlights the intensive use of chemicals in post-harvest manufacturing processes.

Several major chemical categories raise particular concerns due to their environmental and health risks. Dyes and colorants, especially azo dyes, are widely used in textiles but pose significant health risks (Swedish Chemicals Agency, 2014). These dyes can degrade into aromatic amines and quinoline, which have been linked to carcinogenic effects, particularly through skin contact (Antal et al., 2016). Some azo dyes, especially direct and acid azo dyes, undergo a process called reductive cleavage in the human body, breaking down into aryl amines — many of which are known carcinogens (cancer-causing). This breakdown can occur in the liver, through intestinal bacteria, or even via skin bacteria.

Despite regulatory restrictions, concerns persist. Approximately 25% of the azo dyes listed in the Colour Index database (around 500 dyes) are synthesised using carcinogenic amines already regulated under REACH (Swedish Chemicals Agency, 2014). While technically restricted, these dyes continue to appear on the market, as they remain listed with suppliers. Adding to the hazard, both direct and acid azo dyes bind weakly to textile fibers, making them more likely to transfer onto skin or enter the body through ingestion — posing particular risks to young children.

Surface treatment chemicals, particularly per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS), represent another pressing concern. Textiles account for roughly 35% of global fluoropolymer demand, making them the largest contributor to PFAS pollution in Europe (Doyle et al., 2024). Valued for their water, oil, and stain resistance, PFAS compounds are now under intense regulatory scrutiny due to their environmental persistence and serious health risks. These risks include endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, cancer, and organ damage (Doyle et al., 2024). The presence of perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS), known as ”forever chemicals” or “eternal chemicals”, is recognised as a particularly urgent challenge to be addressed (European Environmental Agency, 2019). Comprising more than 4,700 chemicals, PFAS are extremely persistent in the environment and human bodies, accumulating over time and potentially leading to serious health problems including liver damage, thyroid disease, obesity, fertility issues, and cancer (Peritore et al., 2023). The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) has significantly expanded the scope of PFAS classification through its revised definition, which now includes any chemical containing at least one saturated CF2 or CF3 moiety.

This broader definition has dramatic implications for chemical identification and management, as evidenced by PubChem, one of the largest open chemical databases, where over 7 million compounds — out of its 116 million total compounds — are now classified as PFAS under these new criteria (Schymanski et al., 2023). This expansive reclassification exemplifies the widespread presence of PFAS in chemical compounds and reveals the growing challenge of managing these substances effectively.

The industry also employs various processing chemicals including phthalates as plasticisers and formaldehyde in fabric finishing. Studies have consistently linked these substances to potential health risks (Rovira and Domingo, 2019; Antal et al., 2016). Additional processing agents like chlorophenols and alkylphenol ethoxylates present further environmental and toxicity concerns.

The extensive use of hazardous chemicals in textile manufacturing reinforces the urgent need for stronger chemical management throughout the supply chain. Addressing these challenges requires enhanced traceability, stricter regulations, and industry-wide commitment to safer alternatives.